In Their Own Words

Discover the secret backstory behind Lotion P50, the most famous product from Biologique Recherche, in the words of Research and Creative Director Dr. Philippe Allouche.

It’s impossible to pick a favourite from Biologique Recherche’s all-star lineup of skincare innovations, but if there’s one that continues to shine in the spotlight, it’s Lotion P50. Beloved for its gentle yet effective exfoliating prowess and equally famous for its unusual scent, P50 is regarded as the secret ingredient in achieving that inimitable Biologique Recherche glow.


Lotion P50 was created by Biologique Recherche Founder Yvan Allouche in 1970 as a way to gently exfoliate the skin, regulate excess sebum secretion, moisturize and help maintain the epidermis’ pH level. We caught up with his son, Dr. Philippe Allouche, to get the full family backstory behind this skincare game changer.

“Lotion P50 is our most famous and coveted product, and the cornerstone to Biologique Recherche skincare treatments. All Biologique Recherche skincare treatments, whether administered at home or in a beauty institute, start with the ‘P50 ritual’ in the morning and evening.


My father came up with the product, and my mother came up with the technique. She was a physiotherapist and, for her, the epidermis was the interface to connect to the rest of the body. When my father and I would present P50 to the press in France, they would say, ‘You know, it smells.’ To which we would reply, ‘Who cares what it smells like? Look what you have inside.’ We were drawing attention to the ingredients, which was unusual at the time. The editors didn’t like the smell, but they all started using it.


It took us a long time to arrive at the most perfect formula. Indeed, the production protocol of the Lotion P50 is very important, considering its composition, which is rich in active ingredients such as fruit acids. It’s a production process that takes a lot of time and attention. The order of incorporation of the materials and the agitation times are essential—that’s what makes Lotion P50 unique.


My father understood that skin had to be respected and he wanted to create something to rebuild the epidermis. He thought it would be better to have a gradual, soft exfoliation with acids that could also enrich the natural moisturizing factor in our skin. Although exfoliation is a natural process whereby the skin gets rid of dead cells, it slows down with age. We do not believe in facial scrubs, repeatedly using strong peels, extractions or anything else that is going to weaken or potentially damage the epidermis. It is tremendously important to have a fully potent and strong epidermis, as it impacts the overall health and look of skin.


Instead, we use products that restore and strengthen the protective barrier function of the epidermis, accelerate epidermal reconstruction and restructure by boosting the repair capacity of damaged skin. The process is not immediate—nor should it be—but it is well used for a progressively balanced skin.


Lotion P50 has always been a product of its time, and it will continue to be. If someone loves this product, they will love it for the rest of their life.